Kitchen cabinet fronts MDF vs construction grade plywood??

last year

last modified: last year

I am designing my kitchen and was originally going to go with IKEA carcasses and get fronts from a PLYKEA-esque place- plywood with an oak veneer for the lower cabinets and the island and white for the uppers. (See pic as my jumping off point) On a whim I went to a kitchen place nearby- they do MDF carcasses (I'm assuming they couldn't be far off from IKEA) as well as MDF cabinet fronts with the oak veneer. Is one really better than the other (MDF vs construction grade plywood) or should I go with the cheapest I find?

For context, I would like quartz countertops. I don't know if that really makes a difference as I THINK Ikea (and thus, MDF) holds those up just fine. Also, neither plywood nor MDF veneer options are foil, but are actual oak.

THANK YOU!

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Comments (4)

Ricky Watkins
last year
You need to check what thickness some supply too, Thicker better IMO, Daisy seems too know her stuff on this as it's her arena she'll be the one too tell you best options
Sarah Curry
Original Author
last year
last modified: last year
@Ricky Watkins- thanks! Yes, both IKEA & the local place I went to run 18mm all around from what I can tell. But with the plywood it is 13 layers. Unsure about measurement in mm! Also, who is Daisy?
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Also, top tip, folks! If installing an island with plumbing/electrics in it, make sure you have an access panel somewhere to get to them - especially for the plumbing. I speak from bitter experience in the last house. This is a particular problem with Belfast sinks mounted, you guessed it, under a stone worktop, meaning you can't easily take the sink out. I had this in my old house - learned my lesson the hard way, A bad situation when your dishwasher or waste disposal unit are leaking or need replacing, and you find out that there are a load of connections you need to get to that are hidden behind the sink. Even worse if that Belfast sink has an Insinkerator waste disposal plumbed into it and the dishwasher is plumbed into that - the bits you need to get to are directly behind the unit, and not easily reachable from the space in the cabinet under that sink, even if you cut out the back panel. Very awkward. So that stone worktop has to come off (not realistic) or you have to cut through a cabinet back or two with a jigsaw (better option by far - but you do it very carefully). Which is what I did - replacing the hacked up back panel with an access panel held in place by magnets, for the next time. Trust me, it's easier to do this at installation stage! This island is 90cm wide, and one side is the seating area, which is behind the row of front cabinets, which include sink, fridge, dishwasher etc. The whole kickpanel in the seating area will be mounted on a stud frame which has six metal threads installed, so that the panel (plywood, as we determined above) bolts to these six screws. Need access to the plumbing and drain? Drop the panel in minutes, and everything is in front of you and easily accessed...
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Hi Tracey, A really good question, it can be overwhelming out there. My advice is based on my experience, I'm sure you will get differing viewpoints but my advice is based on 30 years in the business so I have seen types of kitchen furniture. If your going to go for a modern look, go to a reputable kitchen company, find something you like the look of, test the doors and drawers and get a feel of the quality. You need laying on doors with a blum hinge. Ideally, the drawers should have an 18mm base with under mounted double extension runners. The carcass will probably by MFC which is very hard wearing. Use a local company so you get good service and back up should you need anything doing in the future. If your going with a traditional look it can be more of an issue. Workshops offer value for money but usually don't have the design flair. (there are exceptions to this rule but this is what I have generally found.) Workshops with showrooms usually have the design skills but you will pay a large premium as their overheads are much higher and the design facility allows them to add a premium. My advice is to have the kitchen designed by a professional designer who can plan the kitchen, do elevations, lighting schemes and artists impressions then use this package of drawings to get quotes from a number of small workshops to ensure you get the best price. This is the specification you should be asking for. Carcasses in plywood with MFC or veneer face. MFC faced ply is more practical and does not need finishing so is more economical. Veneered ply needs finishing so is more expensive, more delicate but looks beautiful. I avoid solid timber carcases, they are very expensive and I have had issues with them warping and splitting. Full frame front edge in hardwood, inner edge beaded. Doors inset into frame with hardwood outer frame and MDF inner panels. Drawers in hardwood, dovetailed with double extension under mounted runners. First quality butt hinges. Get them to make it and spray in a matt white primer, fit it in primed finish. Then get a specialist pinter in to apply the top coats, use Farrow & Ball or Little Green as they do a good grade of paint suitable for furniture application and the colours are based on English heritage. Don't be tempted to mix paint to a similar shade, the quality and tonal value of the pint is very important. Hope that helps, Martin www.angel-martin.com www.3dinteriorillustration.co.uk
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tim_baker921
last year
Ikea cabinets are fine but be aware they are designed for their home market and fit with the rest of their kitchen range. A common issue is that the cabinets go back to the wall whereas in the UK a gap is left for pipework etc. Swedish services come up through the floor.
Daisy England
last year
I’m not familiar with Ikea products. I do know that their doors are a different size to the standard ones here in the Uk so if you want to replace doors only in the future you will not be able to unless you go back to them and they offer fascias only. If there are 13 layers it will probably be birch. If it has a oak veneer on the ply it will need to be lacquered to stop any damp ingress. It may be the case that it’s melamine not veneer?

The main carcase construction is MDF. Some are 15mm and better ones 18mm thick. Check the thickness of the edging too. 2mm ABS edging is the better option.

Kitchen cabinet fronts MDF vs construction grade plywood??

Comments (4)

Ricky Watkins

Sarah Curry
Original Author

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Kitchen cabinet fronts MDF vs construction grade plywood??

Comments (4)

Ricky Watkins

Sarah CurryOriginal Author

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Daisy England

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Sarah Curry
Original Author